We slept in, the kind of lazy morning that feels like a small holiday inside the holiday, before rolling into Sulphur Springs for a wander. The town square has those famous one‑way‑mirror public toilets, the kind where you can see out but no one can see in, which is both deeply practical and mildly unsettling before coffee.
We walk around with not much open. We keep forgetting that small towns kinda shut down on a Sunday. But there was a cafe and an antique store open. We popped into the cafe and are sent down to the bar to order a coffee. I thought that was strange, but apparently not. The bartender/barista takes my order and when it’s made simply says “it’s on the house”. I literally have no idea why, but I thank him and in exchange give him an Aussie badge which we have been giving out to people who we have interacted with or have been kind to us. He is super thankful and we head down the street.
We ducked into an antique store run by Mark. He had a few old guitars leaning casually in a corner, so I asked if he was a muso, forgetting, of course, that Americans don’t shorten words the way Aussies do. He laughed, said he was a musician, and we fell into one of those easy, unexpected conversations that make small towns feel like home.
When we mentioned we’d come from Paris today, he grinned and asked if that made us Paris‑ites. A bold pun before midday, and honestly, I respect the commitment. Matthew and him had talked guitars and Harleys which might be why we connected with him so much. He talks about a band he used to play in and the one he does now, very modest and humble about his skills as a guitarist. It’s hilarious to listen to the conversation that Mark also has a brother named Matthew (Matthew has a brother called Mark) and how that have a shared history of being asked “Where is Luke and John”. Classic biblical joke. Funnily enough, we didn’t buy a thing, but somehow left with a book on local history, a record of Mark’s band a handful of stickers, and a patch for Matthew’s leather jacket. A very Texas kind of generosity.
The drive from Sulphur Springs to Jefferson was all open road and springtime. Cows and calves everywhere. We passed more churches than houses, which feels like a Texas rite of passage at this point. There was even a crossing for locals to get to a church across the highway. It was hilarious.
Jefferson greeted us with a Main Street that’s small but absolutely packed with antique stores. I counted at least six within a short stroll, each one promising treasures, oddities, or both. I cannot wait to hit them to see was Disney treasure lie inside.
Our AirBNB host in Jefferson pointed us toward a BBQ place for lunch. The place has all walks of life and the line shortly after our arrival goes the whole length of the restaurant. We work out how the place operates after a few instructions and it didn’t disappoint. Smoky meats, slaw, potato salad – simple, hearty, very Southern. The kind of meal that makes you briefly consider taking up smoking meat as a new hobby. We have some pulled pork, ribs and brisket. OMG!!!!!! Amazing.
Before we leave we do a necessary pit stop as we’ve spotted a vintage shop we know will only reopen when we have moved on and absolutely need to check it out before we hit out accomodation. Love there was some Cowboy Wisdom in the bathroom.
So – I love vintage places in America, they always have all kinds of Disney collectables, and this one didn’t disappoint. I added to my ‘extra suitcase’ with no issues at all, and we realise it’s time to check in.
I gotta say, Bessie’s Landing was exactly like the pictures. We arrive and are greeted by Elaine, the host. The cottage we’re in is an annexe to their beautiful home. She gives us even more advice about places that are open over the next couple of days. She also tells us about the reason behind the name of the place and a bit of history about Jefferson. It used to be the farthest point a riverboat used to be able to make from New Orleans.
The place is beautiful and not another thing needed. Elaine has stocked the fridge, freezer and cupboards, and it’s becoming evident why her place has consistently 5 stars reviews.
We unpack, relax a bit before deciding where we might head for dinner. Matthew has found a local institution called Auntie Skinner’s Riverboat Club. Again we are looking for somewhere to sit at a bar, the best possible way to hear from locals or those who are keen for a chat.
We walk in and it’s a stereotypical US bar. We sit up at the bar and the bartender seemed kinda surly so I made it my personal mission to crack her. I overhear a conversation between her and another staff member that the shift she was on was quiet and doesn’t get her a lot of tips. Might explain her ‘way’ tonight. Despite the attitude I persist and again overhear a conversation about a competition she is getting ready for. My in! We learn she is training for a body building competition, she used to have an eating disorder, she has a coach, she moved to Jefferson cause she would be paid more than Dallas, she will go back to school to become a nurse, she used to be a carer for a quadriplegic….it all came out. Challenge complete.
Soon after a drink and ordering food Jeremy sits next to us. It’s the beginning of meeting another cool crew. He is there with some family and friends who we soon get to meet. Jeremy’s wife Jessica, another Jeremy and his wife Meghan, and Tim. They were amazing to chat to. They are from all over USA, but Jeremy and his wife aren’t too far, and after talking about many things, he offers to take us to the gun range he is a member of. We are not sure if we can fit it in with our plans for tomorrow but it’s a kind offer.
Before we left we’ve exchanged numbers, Facebook and Instagram and regardless if the gun range happens, I can’t help but thing we’ve made some new international friends.
Seriously – I still can’t believe we have only been holidaying for a few days and our interactions and stories are already piling up. My heart is full and sharing these memories with Matthew is priceless. Who knows what tomorrow will bring.
Missed a day? You can find the full trip here:
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